People often say “it was better back then”. In some ways it definitely was – less traffic, a less crowded beach, cheaper cost of living, etc. But what about the waves? I’m not so sure. Photos like this sure make it seem that way, but those days were pretty rare. The sand bars come and go. Yancy III started surfing in 1965. He felt like we go through eras, some better than others. I tend to agree. This photo is YS III on Pensacola Beach in the mid 70’s.
📸 x Dave Skelton